Peru 18 - Ruined in 10 Days

November 17, leaving Peru

Sometimes you get carried away. Annie arrived in Lima 10 days ago, and since then, we bused to Nasca, flew over the Nasca lines – huge drawings in the dusty plains that can only be appreciated in the air – then bused 13 hours from Nasca to Cusco. That last bus ride was a ride from hell – things could only get better after that. Buses only leave at night from the coast for this journey into the Andes – what, no daytime buses so we could appreciate the changing scenery for dusty coastal dunes to pristine snow-capped peaks? No, I was told – only night buses.
Our first bus ride from Lima to Nasca was like flying overseas. Checkin at Cruz del Sols Lima headquarters was like a mini-airport – clean, efficient, and completely computerized. Onboard , upstairs and busing south along the dry coast, a uniformed “flight” attendant gave us blankets, pillows, drinks and a meal. He spoke a few languages so he could converse with all passengers. If Greyhound operated this way, North American airlines would be in trouble.
Of the 4 bus companies in Nasca, only one had room leaving that night, and we were eager to get to Cusco. She (bus ticket girl) told me it left at 5pm but didn't have any “beds” - that is, fully reclining seats, nor was any meal served. I returned to the hotel to ask Annie if this would be suitable. Yes. I returned to the bus station. The ticket girl then told me there was a bus at 7pm – maybe I would prefer that one since it had “beds”? Hmm, why didn't she tell me this earlier. Oh, and this later bus had dinner. Why did a 5pm bus have no dinner but the 7pm one did? I have no answer. I returned once again to the hotel to confer with Annie. Yes, take 7pm one. I return to the bus depot and attempt to buy the ticket. Sorry, cash only (I had paid with credit card for previous bus ride). I left the bus depot once again in search of an ATM. Good thing I had all afternoon to buy two bus tickets.
We left Nasca at 7, and for the next 13 mostly pitch dark hours, we were thrown about the semi-reclining seats (there were no “beds”) as the bus careened into the Andes on tight switchbacks for the majority of the trip. I threw up at least 5 times, and the bus toilet would spray chemical solution all over you when you flush it as you attempted not to get thrown against the tiny walls. In Peru? I recommend flying over busing if not a coastal route.
Annie and I both enjoyed Cusco, although we didn't miss the city noise (disco 2 doors down) when we soon left for the Sacred Valley. We visited ruins in Cusco, Machu Picchu, Ollantyatambo, and Pisac. The train ride from Ollantya to Machu Picchu was absolutely incredible – deep narrow valleys, high peaks, ruins everywhere. Following the Urubamba river, we descended down from mostly barren slopes and cacti of the upper Sacred Valley into the Eyebrow of the Amazon – the beginnings of a rainforest with the air warm and moist – orchids growing from tall trees and forest growth all the way up the steep granite walls. The train was clean and also operated like an airline – smartly attired attendants who served us food and drinks on this fairly short train ride. They even did a fashion show of local alpaca wear for the rich and famous to purchase (ie not us).
The train unloads us at Agua Callientes – a town positioned 1 km from the base of Machu Picchu, and would look like a Shangra Lai if the town itself was not so ugly – like a mini-Lima dropped in the Andes. Every restaurant served the same menu, and ugly concrete construction was the theme. We ran through it, hiking the 1km downstream and right at the base of Machu Picchu we find a delightful green carpet to pitch our tent right on the Urubamba river. Only two other tents – we more or less have the campground to ourselves. Bliss.

Next morning we hike up the steep trail – about an hour to the entrance to Machu Picchu. Beside the entrance is The Sanctuary, the only hotel right on the mountain. Its room rates start at over $1000 US (yes, US dollars, not Sols). Our camping cost us $5. Weather is warm and misty, but the sun peaks out and we can see all the ruins, even from the next local peak of Winyapicchu. Rain only descends at the end of our incredible time at this sacred site – one of the most amazing human constructions anywhere on this world.
We train back to Ollantyatamba, staying at the delightful Hostel del Orchidas, and visit more ruins up the local hills. This town still uses the same narrow street layout (and stones!) that the Incas laid down centuries ago. Then a fairly short bus ride to Pisac, for ruins stretched out along a long high ridge. We are blown away by all this amazing stonework – still standing centuries after continuous use and many earthquakes. But this whirlwind Peruvian adventure has taken its toll on us – we are both completed ruined out and exhausted. Downtime under a palm tree in Costa Rica is our only plan.